Tuesday, August 30, 2022

A New Home

 

 


Figure 4   New Home on Forbidden Hill, Tai Po

 

On arrival in Hong Kong from China in October 1949, without my father, we were very fortunate to be able to take refuge at an uncle’s place at Diamond Hill. This uncle and aunt had three children then and with six of us, my mother and an aunt of hers, me and two younger sisters and an older cousin, Diamond Hill soon proved too crowded to say the least. My mother somehow managed to find a flat in Mong Kok, above an abattoir.   Yes, an abattoir.  The rent must have been quite cheap!

Although our flat was on the third floor, we could hear the noise early in the morning when activities started.  Luckily, it did not put me off meat or indeed medicine.  Strange!

Still, the rent was considered expensive when compared with the more rural parts of Hong Kong. Also, being in the middle of the wholesale market place of Kowloon, it was considered rough and perhaps not so suitable for families with young children.

Many years later, I ventured back to the same street. The building was still there, just about, but the abattoir had long since moved to probably some modern premises.  There used to be areas in Kowloon that no developer would imagine developing, but that has changed, with the old Kai Tak airport moved and height restrictions lifted.  I would not be too sorry to see that part of Kowloon redeveloped.

Anyway, as soon as father arrived, a month after us, he found a house in The Forbidden Hill in Tai Po, New Territories. What a lovely name for a place!  The name has since been changed to Glamorous Hill, “forbidden” and “glamorous” having the same Cantonese pronunciation.  Not as good, I thought. If Forbidden is good enough for our Emperors, it is good enough for the Cockroach Catcher.

The weeks of the slaughter house noise would now be truly behind us. My father accompanied the truck that took most of our possessions and the rest of us went by train.  We got off the train at the then Tai Po Market Station.


Figure 5  Tai Po Market Station

 

 I have this peculiar memory of a bright blue sky and green hills as soon as the train emerged from the Shatin Tunnel, the one going through the Lion Rock.  Perhaps it was the difference between the city and the countryside, known as the New Territories, the part that China never ceded to Britain post Opium War but leased for 99 years, with the lease terminating on the last day of June 1997.

It was the age of steam.  As the train was about to go through the Shatin Tunnel, it sounded the horns and passengers in the know alerted us that all the windows had to be shut.  Emerging from the tunnel, we could see soot deposits on the window panes.  Eventually I had to commute by train to my secondary (grammar) school in Kowloon.  I had to shut the window if I happened to sit next to one.  It was quite a heavy window for me and I had to lift it by the leather strap and secure the panel on a latch at the top.  Not shutting the window in time would mean sooty face and sooty arms!

Our home was a longish walk from the train station.  A rather complicated set of steps led up to our house on the hill.

“Pigs!”  Yes, real ones, right at the entrance to our compound.  Well, apparently I was not going to be rid of these.  Luckily we were not in a block of flats but in one of a pair of semi-detached village cottages with a reasonable terrace and yard.  So the pigs were not so near that we could hear them inside our home.  As it turned out, the farmer and his wife lived in a wooden hut just above us on the slope and the wife was our sewage clearer.

Our home was very much a simple house, with very thick walls, and a central front door flanked by two windows.  Being semi-detached, the house had a free side wall with a window giving natural light to the sitting area.  The seat by that window would become my favourite for reading books.   It was so pleasant to curl up with three or four books and smell the jasmine outside.  I remember spending much time over my physics reading there.

The house looked as if it had two floors but alas, only the ground floor was habitable.  Some damage had been done to the upper floor and the landlord decided it was simpler to let it as a single storey home.  Our roof was not made of traditional tiles like those around us but of corrugated iron, and not that secure as we found out when Typhoon Mary[1] hit Hong Kong in 1960.

There were two main bedrooms, with six foot high woodboard partitions and a sliding door that nobody bothered to use.  We all had mosquito nets, which you might be surprised to hear not only kept mosquitoes out, most of the time, and sometimes even kept cockroaches at bay!  Yes, cockroaches, my nickname-sake.  For those that have never lived with cockroaches, beware of your toes touching the net, or you might have them “cleaned” by the insects.  Ha! Ha!

In many ways, our home in the Forbidden Hill had the feel of a Chinese village house typical of the South that I later came to recognise through my travels into China. 

Typically there would be a giant wooden front door that had huge wooden shutters on the inside to secure it at night.  On the outside you could lock it with a push bar and padlock.

The kitchen was in a single storey out-building, separated from the main house by a narrow three feet wide, open but walled-in passage way. 

This kept the house safe from fires, and also gave us free access to our neighbours’ house through the back doors, which were never locked.

My eighteen years old cousin who left China with us slept outside the bedrooms in the corridor leading to the kitchen.  She never complained and was more like a big sister to us and a daughter to my parents.

For a long time, our main fuel was dried grass collected from the hill at the back of our house and, if we were lucky, dried twigs as well.  Charcoal was used sometimes, but it was a sort of back up as it cost money. 

Soon, we ‘upgraded’ from charcoal to kerosene, but in some respect, that might well have been a “downgrade” because of its unpleasant smell.

 

Primitive as it was, we had running water. To be fair, the colonial government did well to supply us with clean tap water, as we were half way up the hill, the Forbidden Hill, remember?!  Our water came from a stream the other side of Tai Po and to this day it is still one of the best water for making our favourite Teochew tea of Iron Goddess of Mercy.  The water was also supposed to be good for growing bean sprouts.  Most of the bean sprouts sold in Hong Kong were grown here.

There was, however, no hot water on tap.  In the summer, it was cold shower every day, at first from a hose and soon we had the luxury of a shower head on a wooden structure created by my father. In the winter, we boiled water and poured it into a very small iron bath tub.

Toilet? What was that? We had spittoons and father boarded off a corner of the kitchen so that it became our toilet. Later he built a wooden hut between the main house and the kitchen. That is why we had the sewage clearing lady.  Enough said.  During one of our re-union dinners, one of my medical school classmates who is a native from Fan Ling, one train stop from Tai Po, described how when he first visited a classmate living in the “city”, he was completely astonished to find a flushing toilet.  I felt so much better after that.

The water from the kitchen drained into an open gutter that ran through the passage between the house and the kitchen. Father built a slanting half roof over this so that when it rained, cooked food could reach the main house without getting drenched.  At other times, food preparations were done in that sheltered open space.  In fact it was a cool place to sit in the hot summer months. 

There would be a very nice breeze, probably because it was shaded from the sun.  I quite enjoyed sitting there, watching my mother peeling, cutting and preparing vegetables.

Refrigerator?  It had to wait for some years to materialize, but that is another story.

Being half way up the hill, what we did have was a phenomenal view of rice paddy fields right in front of our house.  Beyond the paddy fields was the railway, and then some more village huts against the rolling hills backdrop. A river ran along the railway track and the small streams supplying the river had wonderful fish life and water insects that was a delight when I showed my biology teacher years later. In those early years the water was stunningly clear.

In front of the house, there was a large concreted terrace where one could dry clothes, vegetables and even rice if one grew it. Clothes were hand washed on washing boards and sun dried most days on long bamboo sticks that were sold specifically for that purpose. Clothes smelled good that way for as long as I could remember.

We were blessed with fruit trees of all kinds in the yard: guava, bananas of at least three varieties, papaya, and loquat.  Our “orchard” supplied us with fresh fruits almost all through the year. 


Figure 7  Imprinting

 

From as far back as I could remember, we raised chickens and turkeys. In my mind, these chickens, free range and organic, still tasted the best to this day.  We often cooked a chicken to treat  visitors from the “city”.  Recently when I had lunch with my medical school classmates, one fondly remembered having lunch at my humble village home on one of our group outings into the countryside.  What stood out in his recollections were the chicken and my father’s favourite Teochew yam dish. Those were the days!

We bred our own chickens.  It was a wonderful experience to watch the mother hen sitting on a number of eggs for most parts of the day, although they seemed to know that they could get off to feed themselves when necessary. I think the chicks took twenty one days or so to hatch, and on emerging, would follow mother hen around.  We might have more than one hatching at any time, but the same chicks always followed the same mother hen.  That was in the 50s, long before the Nobel Prize awarded on imprinting[2].  Hawks were still around in those days, and although they tried, they found mother hen not someone to mess about with.  Even we children were warned not to go near the protective mother hens. Amazing side of nature!

We had a netted enclosure for the chickens to keep them safe from predators at night, and a specially built wooden hut with  corrugated  iron roof for egg laying.  Eggs were laid on to a straw lined metal basin placed under two planks set up for the hens.  How they knew that it was the way to do it, I never quite worked out, but there you go.  As these were fertilized eggs, chicken farms sent people round to buy them, often offering very good prices, equivalent to the cost of two meals for a person.  Despite that, we still ate a fair portion of our freshly laid eggs.  Hence my discerning taste for eggs!

My mother’s aunt who escaped to Hong Kong with us was a Teochew native like my parents.  She was a great help to my mother, doing most of the cooking, washing and cleaning chores. She spoke our home village dialect of Teochew and, seldom venturing beyond our compound, never managed to learn the Cantonese dialect commonly spoken in Hong Kong. My mother gave her pocket money and occasionally she went down the hill to the corner store.  It was years later when she was admitted to hospital in a diabetic coma that we realised she had been hoarding sweets and jars and jars of sugar. I had just graduated from medical school then and I still often blame myself for not spending enough time at home during my medical studies to spot her condition.  She was one of the few women I knew who had bound feet – a fetish allegedly ascribed to the Chinese men that I, as an open minded psychiatrist, fail to comprehend; and how quickly the fetish died.

Our neighbours in Swatow decided to move to the Forbidden Hill at the same time as us, taking up the other half of the pair of semi-detached cottages.  The family stayed as our neighbours for the next twenty years or so. They too had an aunt who came from Swatow with them.

It was perhaps unusual, but we and our neighbours got along well. Traditional Chinese courtesy probably saw to it that nobody took advantage of anybody.  I think most friendships that last is when no party tries to take advantage of the other or, for that matter, rely on the other party in a one sided way. There was a lot of giving though.  During Chinese festivals, there was always much sharing of food, and that was traditional style Teochew food that I have come to miss. Now, the children have all grown up and the older generation passed away.  Being scattered around the world, we do not see one another that often, but when we do we are still very close. 


Figure 8  Teochew Kuehs

            I remember going out to the fields with my mother to pick certain “weeds” for want of a better word. These wild plants were pounded and mixed with rice flour to make the green coloured wraps for one of the best tasting desserts, Teochew Kuehs. These green rice cakes filled with glutinous rice and sweet red bean paste were shaped in wooden molds, steamed and left to stand in piles. They would be fried and served to visitors who came round to visit  during the Chinese New Year Festival.  These Kuehs were supposed to cleanse our system, but I am not sure about that.  I know one thing though: it beats wheatgrass drink any day.  I later found out the botanical name of this “weed”: Pseudognaphalium affine[3].  According to my mother, there were two varieties and we separated them to make different batches as their taste was slightly different.

There is so much in the natural world that we have not yet fathomed. But before we have a chance to work things out,  developers often come in, concrete the place up and what might one day be a cure for some disease is wiped out.  This reminds me of the story of Artemisinin, now reckoned to be the most powerful anti-malaria drug. It was recorded in the Chinese book of Herbal Medicine, which is over a thousand years old, as treatment for swamp fever. Its rediscovery by China in the twentieth century was met with skepticism, until it was noted that during the Sino-Indian conflict Chinese soldiers were not dying from the malaria that was rampant in that part of the world. For a long time, the Chinese did not share the findings with the rest of the world.  By chance, specimens of the plant were found along the banks of Potomac River in 2008.  It took some years before the drug was developed by the West.  By now it is the standard treatment of choice.  In fact, back in the ninety sixties, a female Chinese doctor, Tu Youyou, when scouring through the Ancient Chinese Herbal Medicine book found the herb mentioned as a cure for swamp fever, and developed a way to extract the Artemisinin.  In 2015, she was retrospectively recognized and awarded the Nobel Prize.

I know how lucky I was to have had the opportunity at an early age to be exposed to a world still very much in its raw state. It set me up for a lifelong interest in living things and the environment in which we live.   Our good neighbours had two boys and two girls whereas I had three younger sisters.  We were never allowed to play in the streets though, and as a result I was not what you would call streetwise.

The school year started in September and it was spring when we moved to Tai Po. A rather rough school in a rough neighbourhood seemed to be the only choice open to me.  It was a good half hour’s walk from home.  My two sisters were younger than me, so I was the first to go to school.  My youngest sister was not yet born.  Our local government primary school did not start taking pupils until Grade 3.  Education was not made compulsory until 1978.  Parents had to pay school fees for their children in any school, government or privately run.   The Government schools were cheaper but in fact had higher standards on the whole, unless you could afford the elite schools which were generally run by the Anglican or Catholic Church.  The International Schools scene was a much later phenomenon.

My father had good martial arts training and my wife always maintains that his good posture and good health were probably due to that.  He lived to ninety two.  In his wisdom he taught me some martial arts moves for self defence purposes.

Well, I lasted in that school for one half-day!  Dressed in a pristine white school uniform, I found myself in an uncomfortable situation.  These boys were a head taller than me.  I later realised that I was at least a year or two younger.  They looked dirty and rough.  I kept my head down and tried to work out what to do.  I cannot remember a thing about the teacher except she sounded tired and was always shouting.  At break time this boy wanted to know what was in my pencil box.  I declined to show him and he tried to punch me in the stomach.  It is strange how something that is still fresh in your mind can rush to your defence.  I put my father’s martial arts lesson to immediate use.  Not only did I avoid getting punched, but I even managed to return his “compliments”.

Unfortunately, my defensive move was seen by the teacher.  She took me to one side and at lunch time when mother brought my lunch, the teacher told her I was too “violent” for her school. She promptly returned the month’s school fees and off we went, mother and me.

Most parents would have given me a wallop and a good telling off.  My mother only asked: “Are you all right?”  It is so good to have parents who knew and trusted you.  Even then I knew I was not wrong, and so did my mother.  My father actually had a good laugh with our neighbour over this episode.  They all agreed that it was too rough a school for me and I did not start school again till the next September, when the new school year began, I was still the youngest. 

At that time my father was running a poultry farm trying to make a living, as he had not managed to find a job.  He decided to home school me and got me to recite classical Chinese texts.  I had been to Kindergarten in China and was already reading and writing and had good number sense.  I did not see this as something unusual – our great niece of four in Hong Kong can do the same.  Some of the classical Chinese texts I can remember and recite to this day. 

Temporarily freed from school, I had more time to do other things and to get to know the village and our new home.

Across the farm separated by a river was an elevated railway track, with  a slope of at least thirty feet ending in a five foot tall wall of granite blocks that held the river embankment together - very solid engineering indeed. The embankment was the best place to fish and we had to cross the river to get there. 

There were boulders serving as stepping stones, but only the older kids had long enough strides.  The younger ones had to be carried across, and found it a thrilling crossing. Only the older children, including myself, were allowed to handle the fishing hooks and bait, but we all had fun. 


Figure 9  Crossing the River

 

For fishing rod, we used a bamboo stick with a fishing line tied to one end.  The best places were the side tributaries where the flow slowed down. In the stagnant bits of water could be found abundant little fishes, mosquito larvae and rich aquatic life. We used a small net to get the smaller fishes and kept them in pots complete with plants that we found in the river. Some of the little fishes had beautiful rainbow coloured vertical stripes.  We had to separate them and keep each in its own small individual clay pot.  Otherwise there would be fierce fights and casualties.  When the fishes died off we replenished the pots with new ones.  It might not be deemed politically correct now, but I loved playing with them.  Some of the best things in life are free!

During summer weekends the whole family often took the train for one stop to a beach outing at a cove.  Back in Swatow in China in the late forties, we had a very nice beach club that was well equipped with a huge cabana built of bamboo and timber.  I am not sure if one needed to pay, but I remember having great pleasure learning to swim and playing with the sand. That tradition continued with the discovery of this little cove in Tai Po Kau, Kau being the Chinese word for cove.   This beach was attractive in many ways.  We improvised and constructed our own special open tent with a big square piece of cloth supported by four upright bamboos.  The bamboos were secured by strings and wood pegs.  That shaded us from the sun. 

The beach proved to be a major attraction for the city relatives who first gave us shelter when we came to Hong Kong.   They were siblings of my aunt, wife of my father’s older brother, in Bangkok.  Two or three families were involved and very few would miss such a Sunday outing in the summer season.


Figure 10  Tai Po Kau Beach

 

One of the main drawbacks of the beach was that a few places had rocks with stuck oyster shells. These had sharp edges and they could easily cut a wandering foot or arm. Soon enough the grown-ups mapped out the hazard zones. These outings must have lasted a good dozen years and are still remembered fondly as highlights of our childhood. Such outings also fostered the friendship between the children.  Our neighbours often joined us with their four children.  Their mother was a good swimmer and I used to admire how she could cover great distances without much effort.

This cove was also where I first learned to snorkel. In those days we had snorkels that had a ping pong ball in a cage at the end of an umbrella handle shaped snorkel tube.  When submerged under  water, the ball floated up to block the opening of the tube, thus stopping water getting in.

As the children grew older and time became taken up with studies, such beach activities came to a stop. The sea became rather polluted with the increase in population, and the water in this particular cove was no longer clear for snorkeling.  Going to the seaside became an activity for an annual class outing and later something to do with one’s girlfriend.   Now this cove had been filled in and 20-storey high buildings stood where we once snorkeled and swam.

When I moved to England, snorkeling became a thing of the distant past.  Imagine the surprise when as adults we went to the Great Barrier Reef and were given snorkels that bore no resemblance to the ones I used in my childhood .  There was no ping pong ball in a cage and there was a drain at the bottom. The top was slightly curved with a clever design so that water from waves could not get in. Any water that managed to get in was drained away at the bottom.  I looked at it and smiled.  One must always question traditional beliefs and methods. We can be blinded by what looks like a most sensible and reasonable approach – ping pong ball in a cage, and get stuck there.

Our house looked down into a fertile valley of small holdings of orchards and poultry farms. A large part of the whole area was covered by rice paddy fields.

Yes, I was fortunate enough to have seen the traditional Chinese paddy fields and observed the full sowing to harvest cycle. We passed these fields on our way to father’s farm.  The cycle started with the closely sown seedlings, then the transplanting when the seedlings were pulled and spaced out in rows. Rice started life in flooded paddy fields.  An ingenious flooding system was in place and where required special foot operated water transporting systems were installed.  These were like step machines and mostly operated by women.  This is what people in modern days pay to do in a gym!  The irrigation pedals were mainly operated by Hakka women who were originally migrants from Northern and Central China. Hakka meaning “guest family”.  They donned iconic black wide-rim hats and wore traditional black silk pant suits.  The same black silk, stiff mud treated silk called jiao-chou, is now used in haute couture with a high price tag.   I have never worked out the reason for the black colour, but perhaps it is 100% UV opaque.

Before planting out, the tightly packed fresh rice seedlings were a sight to behold.  They had a fresh green colour that was so attractive that the image was permanently imprinted in my memory.  Think wheatgrass next time you see it at a juice bar and then spread it out to two or three fields.  Two or three fields are all you need for your imagination

Before the planting out, there was the ploughing. As rice was mostly grown in clay soil, the ploughing was done when the fields were flooded.  The plough was pulled by a huge “water buffalo”, a very clever animal that could heed verbal commands.  There was no John Deer or Toro and no petrol or diesel fumes either, but always a young boy who looked after the buffalo.  Known as the “water buffalo kid”, he was responsible for taking the buffalo to its grazing field, and he rode it as depicted in many Chinese paintings.   What about school, you may ask.  Remember?  There was no compulsory education.

The planting out was interesting for the speed with which it was accomplished. As if by magic what were just rectangular sections of water-filled mud fields became suddenly transformed, dotted at regular intervals with little green plants. The next stage was nothing to write home about, visually. When the plants got to about two feet the beautiful green colour returned, only more so and more spectacular.  As the wind blew, one could imagine an alluring green sea.  Such vision lasted only a brief time, before the rice fields were drained dry and the ears formed and turned golden.

Then came harvest – no Combines either.  Everything was done manually.  Special bashing stations were set up so that the rice stalks could be thrashed in the fields to remove the rice seeds.  The stalks were bundled up for fuel and rice seeds put into carts and transported to various village houses, where they were spread out to dry.  After that they were milled to get rid of the husks and to produce the best tasting “new rice” of the season.  These farm houses also had stone mills to grind the rice into flour for making the best gluten free noodles, cakes and pan cakes.  The millstones were made of granite and the mills operated by foot.  There was one such farmhouse further to the left of us down a slope and we used to get rice flour from them for major festivals.   Rice flour is specialty flour in the West, but for us it was a standard kitchen ingredient.

We sometimes ventured deeper into the village up the gentle valley.  At the end was a quite well known Taoist monastery.  We took many visitors there to have pictures taken.  On the way we passed through thick wooded areas where the sun could hardly peep through.  There fresh mushrooms of the Chinese variety were grown – one use of the rice stalks mixed with horse manure, I was told.  These too were very pretty and mysterious at the same time.  The mushrooms were sun dried before being sold.  Nowadays fresh Shitake is gourmet food. 

Further up the valley across the small mountain range was the village of Lam Tsuen, where the source of our river was located.  Lam Tsuen was where we often went camping in our boy scouting days.  We camped away from the villages and used water from the river to cook and make tea.

Further on from Lam Tsuen was Shek Kong, where the British Air Force in Hong Kong was based. The sight of a Vampire   doing tricks in the air was our regular entertainment.  Some years later when we were invited to have dinner at the RAF Club on Piccadilly in London, I saw a photo of the Vampire. I related my experience to Nelson, our host.  We met Nelson when we had our vacation condo in Myrtle Beach and once he hosted a musical soiree at home when our younger daughter gave a piano recital and he sang O Danny Boy.  Such touching memories!

 

Going up the back of our new home, we saw other villagers picking firewood. There seemed to be an unwritten rule. People gathered just enough for their own use, not harvesting to the exclusion of others. For a while we used firewood for cooking in our kitchen. The kitchen was also equipped to use straw, but straw was rather smoky.  That was why at meal times smoke could be seen coming out of different chimneys, not an unpleasant sight at sunset.

Kite flying was a source of great amusement.  Kites were made with special paper and split bamboo.  Some boys coated the lines with ground glass and glue in order to cut other people’s lines.  We tended to fly ours when the big boys were fighting elsewhere.  Now and again there might be an encounter but if you then moved away they tended not to bother you.  You might still lose the kite to the trees or to the power lines.  It was great fun nevertheless.

Right in the middle of our yard to the right of the house is one of my favourite trees: the loquat tree.  With our chicken providing true organic fertilizers, we had some of the best loquats I have ever tasted.  They were best when left to ripen on the tree and my parents would wrap up the fruit bunches in brown paper bags.  In my retirement, I saw some similar trees in our holiday resort of Myrtle Beach in South Carolina. Having been assured by the gardener that they were edible,   I tried one and announced to my wife that it was indeed loquat.  Strange that also in Myrtle Beach, one of the first fish I caught was a pompano, which my mother used to buy in the wet market.  Perhaps we picked Myrtle Beach for a good reason.

The bananas, however, could not be left to ripen on the trees, because the animals would have got them!  A special corner space was set up in the kitchen next to the stoves and a tripod of some sort was constructed with twigs to hold the banana bunches for ripening.  The many banana trees in Panama certainly made me feel at home.


Figure 11  Banana Tree

 

Another of my favourite is the guava.  There were two distinct kinds, one with a green flesh even when ripe and the other pinkish.  We had the pink variety, while our neighbours the green one.  We also sampled lot of guavas on our visits to Bangkok. 

At the back of our house were a couple of huts and then wilderness.  Our city visitors used to love hiking up the hill.  These visitors were the same relatives who went swimming with us. When it was too cool to swim, they gathered at our house instead of at the beach.  With fresh farm poultry and various fresh vegetables and fruits that we grew, we always had a good spread.  From all these fairly regular parties, we were able to glean the broader family history.  The continuity provided by such contacts was, on reflection, of great value to me.  There were things that your own parents might not want to talk about but other relatives might, and slowly I was able to build a better picture of life in the past, life in the Chinese village, life during the war, life in Shanghai, and life in Swatow.

After lunch the whole party would climb to the top of the hill for a panoramic view, and that view was magnificent. The top was not difficult to reach as technically it was only a hill, although hill and mountain are the same word in Chinese.  Only one aunt would have difficulty, the one who had Rheumatic heart disease, a crippling condition caused by a strain of Haemolytic Streptococcus.  A school friend and a spouse of a university friend also suffered from this.   The modern day drive to get doctors to cut down on the use of antibiotics may have one unexpected effect. There is now resurgence of Rheumatic heart disease, Rheumatic fever and related conditions and in child psychiatry the emergence of PANDAS (Paediatric Autoimmune Neuropsychiatric Disorders Associated with Streptococcal Infections[4]).  On top of that, Sepsis in children is a big killer.  Yet there is no attempt to control the use of antibiotics in chicken and other animal feeds as such usage greatly improves the meat yield per pound of feed.  Even if there are laws controlling such use, vets are known to have ways to bypass them, even in Germany.  Looking back now, I do wonder if such early exposure to other people’s illnesses planted questions in my mind and made me want to know more about them.  This is more so with the aunt of our neighbour who was a devout Buddist vegan.  She suffered badly from B12 deficiency and eventually needed regular injections.

As luck would have it, when I took my post graduate Psychiatric specialty examination in London my practical case was that of “Subacute Combined Degeneration of Spinal Cord” (nerve fibers that control movement and sensation are damaged) as a result of B12 deficiency.



[2] https://www.nobelprize.org/prizes/medicine/1973/press-release/

[3] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pseudognaphalium_affine  In Chinese this plant is known as "mouse yeast grass and used to make rice-flour pastry for the Qingming Festival; it is sometimes used to flavor the caozai guo consumed on Tai Powan on Tomb Sweeping Day in the spring.

[4] https://www.nimh.nih.gov/health/publications/pandas

Saturday, August 27, 2022

New Home I


 



New Home

Part 1 – Taipo (New Territories, Hong Kong)

 

 

On arrival in Hong Kong from China in October 1949, without my father, we were fortunate to be able to take refuge at an uncle’s place at Diamond Hill. This uncle and aunt had three children then and with six of us, my mother and an aunt of hers, me and two younger sisters and an older cousin, Diamond Hill soon proved too crowded to say the least. My mother somehow managed to find a flat in Mong Kok, above an abattoir.   Yes, an abattoir.  The rent must have been quite cheap!

 

Although our flat was on the third floor, we could hear the noise early in the morning when activities started.  Luckily, it did not put me off meat or indeed medicine.  Strange!

 

Still, the rent was considered expensive when compared with the more rural parts of Hong Kong. Also, being in the middle of the wholesale market place of Kowloon, it was considered rough and perhaps not so suitable for families with young children.

Many years later, I ventured back to the same street. The building was still there, just about, but the abattoir had long since moved to probably some modern premises.  There used to be areas in Kowloon that no developer would imagine developing, but that has changed, with the old Kai Tak airport moved and height restrictions lifted.  I would not be too sorry to see that part of Kowloon redeveloped.

 

Anyway, as soon as father arrived, a month after us, he found a house in The Forbidden Hill in Taipo, New Territories. What a lovely name for a place!  The name has since been changed to Glamorous Hill, “forbidden” and “glamorous” having the same Cantonese pronunciation.  Not as good, I thought. If Forbidden is good enough for our Emperors, it is good enough for the Cockroach Catcher.

 

The weeks of the slaughter house noise would now be truly behind us. My father accompanied the truck that took most of our possessions and the rest of us went by train.  We got off the train at the then Taipo Market Station.

 

I have this peculiar memory of a bright blue sky and green hills as soon as the train emerged from the Shatin Tunnel, the one going through the Lion Rock.  Perhaps it was the difference between the city and the countryside, known as the New Territories, the part that China never ceded to Britain post Opium War but leased for 99 years, with the lease terminating on the last day of June 1997.

 

It was the age of steam.  As the train was about to go through the Shatin Tunnel, it sounded the horns and passengers in the know alerted us that all the windows had to be shut.  Emerging from the tunnel, we could see soot deposits on the window panes.  Eventually I had to commute by train to my secondary (grammar) school in Kowloon.  I had to shut the window if I happened to sit next to one.  It was quite a heavy window for me and I had to lift it by the leather strap and secure the panel on a latch at the top.  Not shutting the window in time would mean sooty face and sooty arms!

 

Our home was a longish walk from the train station.  A rather complicated set of steps led up to our house on the hill.

“Pigs!”  Yes, real ones, right at the entrance to our compound.  Well, apparently I was not going to be rid of these.  Luckily we were not in a block of flats but in one of a pair of semi-detached village cottages with a reasonable terrace and yard.  So the pigs were not so near that we could hear them inside our home.  As it turned out, the farmer and his wife lived in a wooden hut just above us on the slope and the wife was our sewage clearer.

 

Our home was very much a simple house, with very thick walls, and a central front door flanked by two windows.  Being semi-detached, the house had a free side wall with a window giving natural light to the sitting area.  The seat by that window would become my favourite for reading books.   It was so pleasant to curl up with three or four books and smell the jasmine outside.  I remember spending much time over my physics reading there.

 

The house looked as if it had two floors but alas, only the ground floor was habitable.  Some damage had been done to the upper floor and the landlord decided it was simpler to let it as a single storey home.  Our roof was not made of traditional tiles like those around us but of corrugated iron, and not that secure as we found out when Typhoon Mary hit Hong Kong in 1960.

 

There were two main bedrooms, with six foot high woodboard partitions and a sliding door that nobody bothered to use.  We all had mosquito nets, which you might be surprised to hear not only kept mosquitoes out, most of the time, and sometimes even kept cockroaches at bay!  Yes, cockroaches, my nickname-sake.  For those that have never lived with cockroaches, beware of your toes touching the net, or you might have them “cleaned” by the insects.  Ha! Ha!

 

In many ways, our home in the Forbidden Hill had the feel of a Chinese village house typical of the South that I later came to recognise through my travels into China.  Typically there would be a giant wooden front door that had huge wooden shutters on the inside to secure it at night.  On the outside you could lock it with a push bar and padlock. 

 

The kitchen was in a single storey out building, separated from the main house by a narrow three feet wide, open but walled-in passage way.  This kept the house safe from fires, and also gave us free access to our neighbours’ house through the back doors, which were never locked.

 

My eighteen years old cousin who left China with us slept outside the bedrooms in the corridor leading to the kitchen.  She never complained and was more like a big sister to us and a daughter to my parents.

 

For a long time, our main fuel was dried grass collected from the hill at the back of our house and, if we were lucky, dried twigs as well.  Charcoal was used sometimes, but it was a sort of back up as it cost money. 

 

Soon, we ‘upgraded’ from charcoal to kerosene, but in some respect,  that might well have been a “downgrade” because of its unpleasant smell.

 

Primitive as it was, we had running water. To be fair, the colonial government did well to supply us with clean tap water, as we were half way up the hill, the Forbidden Hill, remember?!  Our water came from a stream the other side of Taipo and to this day it is still one of the best water for making our favourite Teochew tea of Iron Goddess of Mercy.  The water was also supposed to be good for growing bean sprouts.  Most of the bean sprouts sold in Hong Kong were grown here.

 

There was, however, no hot water on tap.  In the summer, it was cold shower everyday, at first from a hose and soon we had the luxury of a shower head on a wooden structure created by my father. In the winter, we boiled water and poured it into a very small iron bath tub.

 

Toilet? What was that? We had spittoons and father boarded off a corner of the kitchen so that it became our toilet. Later he built a wooden hut between the main house and the kitchen. That is why we had the sewage clearing lady.  Enough said.  During one of our re-union dinners, one of my medical school classmates who is a native from Fan Ling, one train stop from Taipo, described how when he first visited a classmate living in the “city”, he was completely astonished to find a flushing toilet.  I felt so much better after that.

 

The water from the kitchen drained into an open gutter that ran through the passage between the house and the kitchen. Father built a slanting half roof over this so that when it rained, cooked food could reach the main house without getting drenched.  At other times, food preparations were done in that sheltered open space.  In fact it was a cool place to sit in the hot summer months.  

There would be a very nice breeze, probably because it was shaded from the sun.  I quite enjoyed sitting there, watching my mother peeling, cutting and preparing vegetables.

 

Refrigerator?  It had to wait for some years to materialize, but that is another story.

 

Being half way up the hill, what we did have was a phenomenal view of rice paddy fields right in front of our house.  Beyond the paddy fields was the railway, and then some more village huts against the rolling hills backdrop. A river ran along the railway track and the small streams supplying the river had wonderful fish life and water insects that was a delight when I showed my biology teacher years later. In those early years the water was stunningly clear.