Saturday, May 4, 2019

Rigoletto: Metopera


The neon is fading from Rat Pack “Rigoletto,” but Met’s stellar cast plumbs the human tragedy

Wed Feb 13, 2019 at 1:52 pm
Nadine Sierra and Roberto Frontali in Verdi's "Rigoletto" at the Metropolitan Opera. Photo: Marty Sohl
Nadine Sierra and Roberto Frontali in Verdi’s “Rigoletto” at the Metropolitan Opera. Photo: Marty Sohl
There’s no doubting that Michael Mayer’s flashing neon production of Rigoletto is effective entertainment: his cheeky, Vegas-inspired take on Verdi’s tragic drama is a playful twist, and on its best nights it has brought a fresh perspective to one of the most familiar pieces in the operatic repertoire.
Perhaps the novelty is wearing off, or perhaps the cast that opened the Metropolitan Opera’s revival on Tuesday night simply weren’t inclined to play along. Together they crafted a dark, compelling rendition of the story that made Mayer’s pole dancers and lines of cocaine feel incongruously glib.
Roberto Frontali doesn’t own the sort of rich baritone you’d usually want for the title role. He shows surprising ring at the top, and his tone is generally firm, but he lacks the round, full sound the fill out the lyrical vocal writing. 
Frontali more than compensates with stunning depth of character: it was clear that his love for his daughter Gilda was the motivating force in his life, and that emotion fueled his singing. “Cortigiani,” his scathing aria in Act II, was taken at a breakneck pace, and in Frontali’s reading it was a thrilling journey from an explosion of rage to desperate pleading.
Nadine Sierra’s interpretation of Gilda gets stronger every time she returns to the role. Her singing on Tuesday was exemplary, luxuriating in her warm, lemony tone and showing off gauzy pianissimos at her top. Her “Caro nome” was a spectacular, sensual reading, becoming a coy duet with the orchestra as she settled into a carefree attitude. The showy, high-climbing cadenza at the end of the aria might have been a little much, but she pulled it off with style. As the innocent victim of the story, Gilda is the hardest character to square with Mayer’s tongue-in-cheek twists, yet Sierra managed to find some lovely human moments, especially in her tender duets with her father.
Vittorio Grigolo’s shining tenor beamed all night in his appearance as the Duke of Mantua, turning to liquid gold in a warm rendition of “Parmi veder le lagrime,” the tender aria at the top of Act II. This performance struck a different note from many of Grigolo’s other Met outings: his energy level was the same—there’s no pulling back on the throttle with this singer—but he usually plays his characters with a kind of manic earnestness. Here he brought that same intensity to a duplicitous, violent, thoroughly repulsive figure, and the result was truly disturbing—a macho goon with no moral restraint or fear of consequences. The lilting “La donna è mobile” had a sociopathic streak running through it.
Štefan Kocán made for a brooding, shady Sparafucile, Rigoletto’s hitman, offering a hazy bass but sounding weak on his bottom notes. Ramon Zaharia impressed in her company debut as Maddalena, showing a rich, dark sound more on the contralto side of the mezzo-soprano range.
Scott Scully was a smarmy, sycophantic Borsa, and Jeongcheol Cha brought swagger and an oaky barrel of a voice as Marullo. The imposing, cavernous bass that Robert Pomakov displayed as Monterone was ideal for booming out proclamations of doom. Jennifer Roderer’s dark mezzo-soprano sounded a little weary in the role of Giovanna, Gilda’s nurse.
It was an up-and down night for Nicola Luisotti in the pit: some raggedness in the orchestra early on cleared up and their sound thereafter was bright. Yet he made a number of odd tempo choices, such as that hell-for-leather “Cortigiani” mentioned above, and compensated for them with extra dynamic punctuation. The men of the Met chorus, at least, were luminous throughout Tuesday’s performance.
Rigoletto runs through May 10 at the Metropolitan Opera. Beginning April 26, George Gagnidze takes over the title role, with Rosa Feola as Gilda and Dimitry Ivashchenko as Sparafucile. Francesco Demuro, Matthew Polenzani, and Stephen Costello share the role of the Duke beginning March 6. metopera.org
MUSIC

Rigoletto at the Met

Nadine Sierra as Gilda and Vittorio Grigolo as the Duke of Mantua in Verdi’s Rigoletto. (Marty Sohl/Met Opera)
New York's premier opera house doesn't do justice to Verdi's political tragedy.
Stop me if you’ve heard this one before. The head of state is corrupt and venal. Instead of attending to the needs of the people, he spends his time chasing sex and committing assorted crimes to cover it up. One of his henchmen, who combines the roles of fixer and funnyman, has been energetically assisting his boss — but is also convinced that he can keep the contamination of his day job from washing back into his personal life. Of course he cannot, and the whole thing ends in disaster. The fish, as they say, rots from the head down.
Now, wait—before you scroll down to the comment section and start typing furiously — I’m not talking about Donald Trump and Roger Stone. Nor am I talking about the Clintons, their assorted hangers-on, and Monica. Nor am I talking about the Kennedys and Marilyn Monroe — though I could be. I’m summarizing the plotline to Verdi’s Rigoletto.
To understand this is to understand why the Metropolitan Opera’s recent revival of a 2013 production of that opera, though musically spectacular, is such a huge missed opportunity. The opera tells a story as old and tragic as mankind, and as fresh and pertinent as a breaking-news tweet. But this production is set in Las Vegas in the early 1960s—perhaps the one setting, out of any time and place, that would most undermine its coherence. The choice makes a travesty out of the work.
My old boss Walter Russell Mead pointed out to me that recreating the Duke as a rat-pack gangster, rather than someone at least expected to rule well, robs Rigoletto of its message. How can corruption eat at the state through its leader’s misdeeds if there is no virtuous polity to begin with? Or, as a friend put it, speaking bluntly of Rigoletto’s daughter Gilda, whom Rigoletto tries to protect at all costs: “How am I supposed to care about this woman’s virginity in Las Vegas? Isn’t that why people went there?”
Indeed it was. No city on the planet has spent more time and money convincing people that actions there are consequence-free. “What happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas” was the spirit long before it was the official slogan. And this is the 1960s: the era before Vegas became a family town. At least, such is Vegas’s reputation in the popular imagination, and as there is no effort to build up the world outside of the casinos, that’s all we have to go on. Forget Rigoletto’s daughter — what did the courtier Ceprano’s wife, or any of the other characters, come into town for? As a result of the setting, there are no stakes; no stakes, no tragedy.
If, on the other hand, you paid attention to the music and the lyrics rather than the visuals, you saw the pathos and power of the drama, which demands more serious attention than it’s getting. Rigoletto features at least one rape, a murder-for-hire, another (judicial) murder, and a lot of kidnapping. It builds a world in which Rigoletto is distracted from the abduction of his daughter because he’s busy (he thinks) helping the courtiers kidnap another man’s wife — something which, it’s clear, is all in a day’s work. The tensions within the court between this dark and dissolute reality and the air of carefree joie-de-vivre are present — or should be — from the minute the short but ominous overture melts away into a party scene.
To be clear, this production is a directorial — or to put it another way, conceptual — failure. Each component of the opera, though subordinated to this flawed vision, is as first-rate as a performance in America’s premier opera house should be. Vittorio Grigolo, who for my money is one of the best tenors now working, is as energetic in acting the Duke as he is skilled in singing him. Nadine Sierra as Gilda nevertheless steals a scene from him at the end of Act I, vocally and dramatically. Roberto Frontali, in the title role, is less a jester than a fixer, and one who has lost his hair, and by the end his family and nearly his mind, in the service of an ignoble leader. Štefan Kocán, as the murderer-for-hire Sparafucille, rounds out a cast of singers who can also act, while Nicola Luisotto conducted the Met Orchestra to its usual gold standard. And the sets, by Christine Jones, are remarkable — lavish, eye-catching renditions of a midcentury casino that fill the whole stage.
This last item, though, points to the heart of the problem: the producer, Michael Mayer, chose to prioritize spectacle over drama. Opera has had a bad reputation in the English-speaking world since at least the early 18th century, when Joseph Addison spent pages of the Spectator reviling it as irrational nonsense. Addison was a smart man; this was a spectacularly dumb take. The art form started as an attempt to revive ancient Greek drama (which, ancient sources tell us, made heavy use of music). Verdi (who came after Addison) is but one example of a serious composer, a man who adapted, and showed himself equal to, the works of Shakespeare, Schiller, Byron, Voltaire, and in the case of Rigoletto, Victor Hugo. The opera is based on the French author’s play, Le Roi s’Amuse, or The King Amuses Himself, set in the court of King Francis I.
But this old charge of nonsense received a curious validation in mid-century America. The closing of European immigration, which had filled the upper tiers of American opera houses with spectators for whom opera was first-language entertainment, and the end of the period when American elites aspired to imitate their European peers, led to a long period when very few audience-members knew the languages in which opera is written (mostly Italian, German, and French). In turn, that created pressure to stage only a very few operas, i.e. the forty or so works in “The Repertoire” that are good enough to sit through for four to six hours without comprehending a word, due to their sheer musical genius. And it created incentives to make the performances spectacles—with lavish, eye-popping sets, costumes, animals—and neglect the dramatic side of the art. This is not to bemoan cool sets; when they work, nothing is better. It’s to decry concepts that make no sense, that look cool but actively work against the spirit or text of the work.
The invention of surtitles (and the neat little screens-behind-the-seat at the Met) started to change all this. People often forget how recently this development came about — Met Titles were only installed in 1995. They led to a whole new generation of singers who can act and directors who can think as though they were responsible for a play as much as for a concert. But, unhappily, old habits die hard. Visual spectacle is to producers what halfhearted acting is to singers: an old temptation that still recurs—as it did here.
One suspects another excuse for this pointedly un-pointed production. “Politicization” is a word which the Met, whose audience is more politically diverse than heartland stereotypes of uptown Manhattan might suggest, would prefer to avoid. It must be admitted that writers who share the politics of myself and this magazine are often the ones most prone to voice such a complaint. And with good reason: the art world is rife with bad politicization that always seems to cut one way, from the trashy and incoherent Siegfried at the Bayreuth Festival, in which Americans in a trailer park smear each other down with oil, to George Lucas’s insistence that “George Bush is Darth Vader” and “Cheney is the Emperor.” Bad politicization happens when a director imposes his agenda artificially on a work. It’s preachy, obnoxious, and often corrodes the artistic value of the production in question.
But that doesn’t mean there’s no such thing as good politicization: attention to the politics inherent in a work. When the commentary is drawn out from a faithful reading of the work, and draws us further into it, there can be nothing to complain about—even if one does not like the message. Verdi provides fertile ground for those searching for such messages. There’s a reason Italian revolutionaries graffitied walls with Viva VERDI, and it wasn’t just because his name could be read as an acronym of Vittorio Emanuele Re d’Italia. His first major opera provided the unofficial anthem for the Risorgimento (“Va’ Pensiero,” from Nabucco). His work could be anticlerical (Don Carlo) as well as anti-monarchial. Austrian censors initially prohibited performances of Rigoletto, then called La Maledizione, before it was revised, reset in the ducal Mantuan rather than royal French court, and renamed. The composer ended his life as a Senator, and not just for his services to the arts.
5
One reason to make peace with, or even encourage, good politicization is to be able to take the good with the bad. For instance, almost every comedy—certainly including Verdi’s—is, as critics from the Ancient Greeks down to the present day have noted, inherently conservative. (Among other reasons, comedies tend to convey a strongly pro-marriage message.) But there are higher reasons too. Politics, despite its seediness, is ultimately the managing of human affairs; thus, it is not surprising that an artistic genius who observes humanity would have insights adaptable to political life, or even drawn directly from it. And it’s ultimately the calling of a producer to help us more fully understand and explore great works of art—politics and all.
The Met’s production of Rigoletto is an excellent example of where engagement with the work as a drama, rather than trying to put on a spectacle, would have been the better move. Certain people at the Met — and a good chunk of the commentariat — may well be kicking themselves, if they think of it, that they blew a chance to critique the President with this Rigoletto. Had it been produced faithfully (in terms of spirit, not setting) it would have been read as a veiled shot at 45, regardless of the fact that it was written before his Presidential run. But looking to the past for lessons that will, by virtue of being timeless, apply to the future is not a trait associated with the politics of the President’s most trenchant critics.
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Rigoletto” is a success on its own terms. Michael Mayer’s new setting for the opera is satin-smooth, with the avarice and rough sexuality of the Duke of Mantua’s Renaissance court finding a good enough parallel in Rat Pack-era Las Vegas. (He may want to rethink the idea of turning Count Monterone into an Arab sheikh, however.) But it is in the final act that the director of such Broadway hits as “American Idiot” finds himself out of his depth: with the original locale of a desolate rustic inn replaced by a seedy urban bar, Gilda’s self-sacrifice plays like bland comedy and the opera’s tragic core is tossed away. Still, Verdi would be glad that his show is making money, and the cast—which includes Željko Lučić, Diana Damrau, Piotr Beczala, and, not least, the men of the Met chorus—is outstanding; Michele Mariotti conducts with elegant aplomb.
 

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In Review Stage Reviews

Metropolitan Opera 2018-19 Season Review: Rigoletto

Nadine Sierra & Vittorio Grigolo Rise Above Sloppy Production

On February 12, 2019, the Metropolitan Opera opened this season’s run of Giuseppe Verdi’s “Rigoletto.” Michael Mayer’s production transports this tragedy to 1960s Las Vegas, a setting which merges together the glamor of high society with its seedy underbelly, just as many of the characters exhibit traits of both nobility as well as depravity.
Despite the connections one can rightfully make between this new setting and that of Piave’s libretto, many of the opera’s details do not translate well as the performance unfolds. Fortunately, this evening saw a splendid cast of artists, under the baton of Nicola Luisotti, whose passions did not fail in providing many moments of musical enjoyment.

Weight of the World

In the title role, Roberto Frontali bore a dramatic and vocal weight that was well-suited to the tragic Verdi father. When begging for the return of his daughter from the courtiers, he was capable of making himself pitiable, but when deciding the duke’s fate with Sparafucile, Frontali’s voice and bearing swelled up to proud heights. While his costume did nothing to suggest the character’s hunchbacked nature, Frontali expertly conveyed the perceived burden felt by the cursed jester. This was heard all too powerfully when Rigoletto realizes Gilda has been abducted; Frontali’s cry of horror was visceral and seemed to expend all the breath he had within him. This sense of gravitas made him as compelling to watch as Sierra and Grigolo, and proved that a character doesn’t need to be young and in love to steal an audience’s heart.
As the Duke of Mantua, tenor Vittorio Grigolo was a highly-entertaining wildcard. His physically dynamic performances can vary in effectiveness depending on the role, but here Grigolo’s energy found resonance not just with the Duke’s character, but what Mayer’s production added by making him a casino owner and club singer. His opening number “Questa o quella,” worked well to set a high bar early into the performance. Despite this, I thought it strange that while he was swinging around a long corded prop microphone, his directions saw him only singing into it for high notes; this made it unclear as to whether he was actually giving a performance as a club singer or just fooling around with his friends.
Grigolo’s love for Gilda was as fervent as it was ephemeral, with a passion that few performers could rival. This was made clear by his duet “Signor, ne principe io lo vorrei.” As the number neared its conclusion, the orchestra tapered into silence, leaving Grigolo and Sierra alone to use their cadenza as an emotionally charged conversation of vocal colors. When it came time for the famous “La donna e mobile,” the faster tempo of the orchestra gave an almost frantic nuance to the aria, emphasizing the Duke being swept away by his passions.

A Priceless Voice

In the hand of cards played by the Metropolitan Opera, Nadine Sierra as Gilda was undoubtedly the evening’s ace.
Starting off with plenty of youthful energy, she gracefully transitioned to a more mature bearing for her duet “Deh non parlare al misero.” While their farewell felt a little drawn out, Sierra and Frontali were deeply touching nonetheless. Sierra earned nearly show-stopping applause for her inspired rendition of Gilda’s aria, “Caro nome che il mio cor,” which displayed her ability to vocally float on cloud nine and deliver stunning ornaments from her highest register.
For Gilda’s abduction at the hands of the courtiers, the use of a sarcophagus was an interesting choice given its earlier use to reveal a dancer in the casino. Here it came back as a means by which the courtiers deliver new women to their duke, and the fact that it’s a coffin suggested Gilda’s dishonoring as a kind of death.
After Gilda was left for dead by Sparafucile in the trunk of a car, I could not help but wonder what new, interesting space Nadine Sierra would be stuffed into next. It was from this trunk that Sierra delivered Gilda’s final lines, accompanied by the dirge-like rhythm from the orchestra, getting fainter and fainter until her last breath tapered into deathly silence.

A Cool, but Clumsy Knife

As the assassin Sparafucile, Stefan Kocan carried a dangerous presence both vocally and dramatically. This character also received significant changes due to the modern setting. His entrance was well-done, having been a shadow at the bar during the energetic first scene; he does not enter so much as he is revealed by the exit of all but him and Rigoletto. While this transition between scenes was otherwise smooth, it seemed incongruous that Sparafucile, wearing a rather sharp suit, is mistaken for a beggar by Rigoletto. Kocan’s duet with Frontali, “Quel vecchio maledivami,” oozed with a grim confidence bolstered by the almost-croaking rhythm of the basses. For his departure, Kocan’s low F was safely handled, though he did not sustain it as long as he could have.
For all the certainty he possessed in earlier scenes, his murder of Gilda was sloppy, if not outlandish. Given that his direction was to sneak up behind her, it seemed unnecessary to cover up her head with a sack before stabbing her repeatedly. While the sack prevented him from recognizing her as Rigoletto’s daughter, due to their tense moment of eye contact before she left to change clothes, this choice only makes sense from the director’s perspective rather than Sparafucile’s. The change from a single stab to multiple also made Gilda’s sacrifice seem more like a slaughter, and suggested a killer that did not know how to swiftly close the deal.

A Shot in the Dark

One of the most notable tweaks to the story came during the powerful entrance of Robert Pomakov as Monterone. While many productions choose some way to distinguish him from the court, often by making his costume a bold, opposing color, this one turns the aged count into an Arabic sheikh; this change raises more questions than it answers, in terms of Monterone’s relationship with the rest of the court, and the enmity between them that exists before the start of the opera. Even more curious was why the Duke forgave Monterone for their undisclosed prior conflict, yet when the latter returned in Act two he was given a bullet in the back of the head for disrupting the games in the casino. One can only surmise that their prior conflict did not involve casino games.
The other major problem with this production ultimately comes down to the title character. Who exactly is Rigoletto in this context? He hangs around the Duke and his entourage, though his role is not clearly defined. The class structure is questionable given that Rigoletto occupies a room in the hotel that the Duke presumably owns, which would likely be an expensive one to live in. Moreover, with the Duke himself playing the role of the entertainer for his friends, he usurps Rigoletto’s original position in the story. Originally Rigoletto’s role as jester not only exemplified that he was lower than the Duke and his Court in the social hierarchy, but that people of his social class were essentially there to be used for the entertainment of the higher classes. Given the context of Los Vegas where this medieval hierarchy is not only less present, but also muddied by the Duke’s role as an entertainer, Rigoletto’s character in this production doesn’t really make any sense.
On the technical side of things, the ever-present neon lights did not add much to the performance overall, though they did have two notable moments. The first came at the end of the stretta in scene one, where the lights begin flashing rapidly as if fueled by the energy of the court, their lives being the public spectacle which keeps the game of debauchery going. The second was the use of wide neon light to run a flickering current, in sync with the flute, and give the impression of lightning for act three’s storm.
With so many variables, there was much that could have gone wrong in the evening’s performance, and it was not without its share of technical bumps in the road. The opera began only a few minutes behind schedule due to a malfunctioning podium light, and after the performance I noticed the curtain becoming stuck for a few moments before it managed to close.
While Mayer’s production has many shortcomings, its greatest strength may lie in its ability to generate strong reactions one way or another, even if only as momentary shock value. With such a stellar cast of artists, many of whom at the top of their game, the Metropolitan Opera has found a winning combination that is sure to make great entertainment through its run of “Rigoletto” this season.

Saturday, April 20, 2019

La Clemenza di Tito






In the Met’s ‘La Clemenza di Tito,’ Politics Turn Personal—and Passionate


Elza van den Heever as Vitellia, Joyce DiDonato as Sesto, and Christian Van Horn (background) as Publio in 'La Clemenza di Tito'.
Elza van den Heever as Vitellia, Joyce DiDonato as Sesto, and Christian Van Horn (background) as Publio in La Clemenza di TitoJonathan Tichler / Met Opera
Even when a reviewer plans ahead (as we should, anyway), a season sometimes offers as many splendid surprises as a casual wander through a museum. Turn a corner in MoMA and, hey, isn’t that van Gogh’s Starry Night? Or you show up on Saturday evening for an unheralded Mozart revival at the Met and discover one of the season’s most precious jewels.
Not only is Mozart’s La Clemenza di Tito even starrier than the van Gogh canvas—all six leading roles are stunningly well cast—but it serves as a timely reminder of a couple of rock-bottom basic tenets of opera as theater.
First, the production by the late Jean-Pierre Ponnelle transforms the elegant tale of a high-minded Roman emperor into gripping, imaginative drama without in any way trivializing or distorting the text and music.
And beyond that, the Met has revived the staging (first performed here 34 years ago!) with skill and imagination. The blocking is precise and the performers have found a happy unanimity in their style of movement, which, as Ponnelle devised it, forms a sort of ironic commentary on the grand manner of classical tragedy.
As the magnanimous Roman emperor Tito prepares for a state marriage, the scheming princess Vitellia—thinking she has been snubbed—cajoles Sesto (her lover and Tito’s closest friend) into a murder plot. The most compelling aspect of the drama, though, is Tito’s Hamlet-like indecision on whether to punish the guilty parties.
Just as the artists embodied larger than life characters physically, so they all sang this demanding and sophisticated score with virtuosic transport.
Most brilliant of all was mezzo Joyce DiDonato as the anguished Sesto. She daringly imposed vast contrasts of volume and tempo upon the most famous aria from this score, “Parto, parto,” transitioning from an almost murmured slow section to a quicksilver conclusion. The elaborate triplet melismas were not only crystal-clear but achingly expressive of the character’s overwrought emotional state.
Soprano Elza van den Heever might have lacked a little of DiDonato’s instrumental precision, but she more than compensated with her aggressive, appropriately scenery-chewing attack on the role of Vitellia. She was not so much a villainess as a weapons-grade drama queenas ferociously stagy as, say, Faye Dunaway might have been in The Favourite.
She hurled out both recitative and coloratura vigorously and even managed to indicate the sepulchral notes of her 11 o’clock number, “Non più di fiori” though she lacks an ideally firm chest voice.
The strong casting included the several featured roles: Emily d’Angelo (Annio) and Christian van Horn (Publio) both boasted lavish, fresh voices, and soprano Ying Fang’s silvery tone and exquisite stage presence were simply perfect for the ingenue Servilia.
In the title role of the merciful Tito, tenor Matthew Polenzani wedded ravishing Italianate tone to exemplary bel canto technique. Declamation, legato and even the fiendish scales in “Se all’impero” all sounded scrupulous yet spontaneous. If his acting felt blank, maybe that’s to the good: part of Ponnelle’s take on this noble melodrama seems to be that people with vast responsibility aren’t allowed to indulge in the luxury of personal feelings.
Amid all this grandeur, Lothar Koenigs’ robust, intelligent conducting admittedly sounded a little pedestrian. But maybe we’ll get a starrier and bolder leader when the Met gets around to a (most overdue) new production of this magnificent work.
What most delighted and moved me about the current revival, though, is that it so clearly recognizes and spotlights the political themes of Clemenza. Even in a season featuring a production of Wagner’s Ring that has been stripped of anythingthat might be considered consequential, the Met still can, on occasion, rouse itself to present opera as serious theater.
O

Saturday, December 29, 2018

Diet


Zoë Harcombe interview: the author of The Diet Fix says we should forget everything we’ve been told about losing weight

Anyone who has ever been on a diet knows that counting calories and skipping meals is a quick hit but doesn’t work long term. Obesity expert Zoë Harcombe thinks she has the answer. By Louise France



HADLEY HUDSON/THELICENSINGPROJECT

The Times, December 29 2018, 12:01am

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Zoë Harcombe has been both an anorexic and an overeater. She knows what it’s like to have a love/hate relationship with the fridge. Now, 30 years on from the teenager who starved and binged, she flies across the world giving lectures to doctors about healthy, achievable weight loss. Since 2004, she’s helped numerous people to lose 4, 5, 6st – and to keep it off.

Her argument is that, “Somewhere along the way we seem to have forgotten why we eat.” Twice she has been invited to put herself forward to stand on America’s Dietary Guidelines Advisory Committee, which draws up official advice every five years – and is due to report again in 2020. Twice, she has declined. She’s more interested in getting Britons on track first.

“I’m on a mission to stop calorie counting,” she says. “I want to put an end to people eating less, doing more and, when they don’t lose weight, beating themselves up. Rip up every government document that has ever been written and eat real food.” Harcombe, you’ll be curious to know, is 5ft 2in and weighs 7st 8lb. She is a size 6. She is 53 and, on the day we meet for lunch, she is rocking a pair of faux leather jeans.

She orders sea trout and salad. She never snacks, and doesn’t drink alcohol. She hasn’t eaten a biscuit this century. But she does eat dark chocolate. Sometimes at breakfast.

Harcombe, it becomes clear, is not a fan of our foodie culture (she was trolled when she tweeted a negative comment about Bake Off and our national obsession with sponge).

She is a no-nonsense, middle-aged woman – which is refreshing. I’m weary of reality TV stars in bra tops telling me how to lose weight. With a mathematics and economics degree from Cambridge University and a PhD in dietary fat guidelines, she bases her weight-loss theories on science and common sense. Hers is a back-to-basics approach that makes you want to punch the air (and not the skinny person sitting opposite you eating a croissant).

“When you have a bad relationship with food, it takes over everything. I would like food to become what it should be, which is fuel. If MasterChef had an episode about real food that everyone could make, that would be helpful.”

She doesn’t believe in counting calories or weighing yourself every day. She has no truck with worrying about portion size, as long as you’re eating moderately healthy food (she isn’t a rabid clean eater). She doesn’t even think you should go to the gym (unless you love it and won’t go mad for muffins afterwards). There are no expensive, obscure ingredients in her meal plans. But like a lot of diet experts, she avoids the starchy carbohydrates you get from pasta or toast. She’s much keener on meat (red), fish (oily) and vegetables (apart from potatoes). This is the sort of sensible dietary advice your mum might give (as long as she doesn’t have a messed-up attitude to food, too – it often runs in families, something else Harcombe is good at dissecting).



Zoë HarcombeDAN KENNEDY

On a typical day, Harcombe – who is married with stepchildren and lives in the countryside near Chepstow, Monmouthshire – will eat fruit and full-fat Greek yoghurt for breakfast, along with a full-fat cappuccino (more filling than a skinny). She might even have a couple of squares of dark chocolate afterwards. The key is eating enough to keep her energy levels up until lunchtime without munching anything else. For lunch it’s often scrambled eggs in butter and smoked salmon – something quick that means she’s not thinking about food. For dinner she will have a piece of meat – often red meat, because it’s more filling than chicken or fish – and a pile of roasted vegetables or a big salad.

After dinner – which is eaten early to cram in overnight fasting time – she’ll brush her teeth. It stops Brexit-anxiety snacking during Newsnight, apparently. “Every time you put something in your mouth you stimulate insulin. Every time you stimulate insulin, you have switched off any chance of burning body fat,” says Harcombe. Better to eat three decent-sized meals a day. “To lose weight you need to spend as much as possible of your day not eating and not recently having eaten.”

She is careful not to have too many carbohydrate-heavy meals – and never to put proteins with carbs, because they’re moreish and we tend to overeat then. So, she’ll eat meat or brown rice with vegetables. She avoids alcohol, not because of the calories but because the liver is too busy getting rid of it and not breaking down body fat. (It takes one hour for the liver to process one unit of alcohol. During that time you won’t be burning fat.)

You’ll notice that she is recommending proper, hearty meals. The problem dieters have, she says, is being hungry all the time. “We can’t sustain it,” she explains. “Which means we think we’ve failed. If we do lose weight, we end up needing fewer and fewer calories to avoid regaining it all again. Which means staying hungry long term – and no one can do that. It’s unnecessary and intolerable.”

Unlike most dieting experts with a book to sell, she makes no hyperbolic promises. She argues that, “The common diet goal of calorie counting to lose 2lb a week is worse than unrealistic. It is impossible. In my experience, 2lb a week is the minimum people expect to lose. Why am I the first person to tell a client that if they lose 2lb a week, week in, week out, until they reach their target weight, they will be the first person in the world to do so?” If she sounds frustrated, it’s because she is.

Millions of us still persist in counting calories. I include myself among them. I’ve met numerous weight-loss experts, from Jean Nidetch, an office clerk who started her Weight Watchers empire from a New York brownstone in the Sixties, to Professor Roy Taylor, who has made headlines this year for combating type 2 diabetes with diet, and they’ve all based their regimes on the notion that the calorie is king.

We need to get back to asking ourselves, ‘Why do we eat?’

The irony is that the c-word is a pretty outdated concept. It was 1918 when an American woman, Lulu Hunt Peters, wrote a book called Diet and Health, which first popularised calorie counting and went on to sell two million copies. At the time, the calorie was such a newfangled idea that she wrote it out phonetically to show her readers how to pronounce it. “Hereafter,” she wrote, “you are going to eat calories of food. Instead of saying one slice of bread or a piece of pie, you will say 100 calories of bread, 350 calories of pie.”

We’ve been doing pretty much this ever since, despite it being a lesson in futility. We probably don’t even know what a calorie is (it’s a measure of the energy released by food as it is digested by the human body; nope, I’m no clearer either), but ask us the exact number in numerous random foods and we can shout out the answer. A boiled egg? Seventy-eight! A small banana? Ninety! A two-finger KitKat? One hundred and six!

We often know these numbers – many of them guesstimates at best; at worst, made up by marketing departments – better than we know the mortgage rates on our own homes.

We might be desperate to be slimmer – in one US study, one in six women said that they’d rather be blind than fat – but we’re failing. According to the most recent statistics, 58 per cent of women and 68 per cent of men in Britain are overweight or obese. Around 4.6 million Britons have diabetes, the majority suffering from type 2, for which weight gain is a factor. Meanwhile, the global diet industry is worth £200 billion. If we do lose weight, 95 per cent of us put it back on. And then some.

Harcombe is the sane voice of the anti-diet movement, and she’s backed by increasing numbers of GPs. The diet industry, Harcombe says, is built on “cruel lies”. Her new book is called The Diet Fix. (She originally wanted to call it Don’t Diet.)

There are other books out next year that reflect this same disillusionment with diets – all of them by women who have also had issues around food, be it anorexia or binge eating. Whether it’s The F**k It Diet by Caroline Dooner or How To Feel the Fear and Eat It Anyway by Eve Simmons and Laura Dennison or Conquering Fat Logic by Nadja Hermann, calorie counting is increasingly seen as unhelpful.

Harcombe’s biggest bugbear is Public Health England, which, she says, has too many food industry figures on its panel. “Our public health advice has more likely caused the obesity epidemic than helped it,” she argues, citing the tenfold increase in weight problems in just 30 years in Britain. She dates our obesity crisis back to when we were told to eat carbs over fat, which was demonised. Faced with the bread basket, Harcombe says, only half joking, that she’d rather eat the pat of butter than the bread.

The Eat Well plate on the PHE website – she calls it the Eat Badly plate – still favours cereals, pasta and bread, despite a groundswell of experts arguing that this is the wrong way to go, including Dr David Unwin, the Merseyside GP who was recently placed ninth on Pulse’s annual power list for his anti-carb strategy with patients with type 2 diabetes.

“PHE advises cereal for breakfast, starchy food at lunchtime, starchy food for dinner,” says Harcombe. “When we are supposed to burn fat and lose weight, I have no idea.”

To understand her problem with carbs, she gives a biology lesson. To lose weight, you have to understand what the hormones insulin and glucagon do in the body. Whenever we eat any carbohydrate, glucose is released into the bloodstream. At this point, insulin is secreted by the pancreas to extract the glucose. Glucagon is the hormone that breaks down body fat, but it won’t do this if glucose is available for fuel. Furthermore, glucagon in only activated if in insulin isn’t present.

She wishes British children were taught more of this stuff than they are now – and fears that the current carb-heavy diet of pizza and pasta they are served for school dinners is going to drive up obesity levels further (one third of Year 6 children in Britain are already obese or overweight).

The advice to “eat less, do more” doesn’t work, she says. “We can’t sustain a calorie deficit. We try to eat less, but our entire driver is to eat more – the opposite of what we want to happen.” We also end up having less energy. “Which means we want to do less. And if we then do more, what happens? We get hungry.” Her argument is that we can’t buck millions of years of evolution just because a diet book says that we should. It is, she says, impossible to outrun a bad diet. Far better to simply move around a lot during the day.

What is more, if we can sustain a calorie deficit, the body adjusts. It’s why the 5:2 diet – based on eating 500-600 calories a day for 2 days of the week – peters out. “It’s still a calorie deficit at the end of the day,” she says. “The body will adjust.”

Harcombe started counting calories when she was 16 after being teased at school. Now she knows that she was a healthy 8½st, but at the time she convinced herself she was fat. She recalls finding a booklet that said to lose 1lb a week, she simply needed to cut back by 3,500 calories (it’s Hunt Peters’ original theory from 100 years ago). “It wasn’t long before I was under 8st. Then under 7½.” It took a lot longer to get under 7st. Because she was needing to cut more and more calories to see the scales drop, she was subsisting on black coffee and apples (95 calories each). “I was constantly thinking: how can I eat less and do more?” She played hockey, badminton, tennis, went swimming. Her periods stopped. She was always cold. She started fainting. At her lowest she got down to 6st. Her mother, a PE teacher, took her to the doctor.

Now she realises that, like a lot of high-achieving, middle-class teenage girls, she was using food to prove herself. “My parents were not affectionate. If you don’t get affection, you work out that the next best way is to get attention. I thought I was building my self-esteem by losing weight.’

At Cambridge University, the opposite happened. She began to overeat. She’d sit in her room and eat a whole Wall’s Viennetta (789 calories). Followed by a box of Quality Street (44 calories per chocolate). Then crisps (184 calories a bag). She was lucky – when she got up to 10st, her brain overrode her emotional eating. When she read up about food, she started eating healthily for the first time in five years. It would mark the beginning of her fascination with nutrition.

Now she says, “The person who was addicted to food feels like an alien to me. But it helps when I’m sitting down with someone for them to know I’m being honest with them. Lots of us have a bad relationship with food.”

Harcombe doesn’t pretend that her advice is a miracle cure. She talks about “chipping away” at weight loss. “We need to get back to asking ourselves, ‘Why do we eat?’ ” she says. “Because we need essential fats, proteins, minerals and vitamins. And then eating food that will give us those things.”

No more. No less.



BOOK EXTRACT

Cut back carbs. Fill up on protein. Eat veg. A 7-day eating plan to stick on the fridge



Don’t calorie count

A significant calorie deficit will likely result in short-term weight loss, particularly the first time a person attempts to “starve”. But weight loss becomes increasingly less successful with further attempts to restrict calorie intake, as the body has no intention of letting the same devastation happen twice. After any initial weight loss, calorie intake will need to be continually reduced to try to achieve further weight loss. And the dieter is more likely to have to maintain a debilitating low-calorie intake to avoid this seemingly unavoidable regain. If they manage this, they will be fighting hunger on a daily basis.



Don’t go to the gym

We’re trying to eat less at the same time as doing more, but doing more makes us hungry. Our entire driver then is to eat more – the opposite of what we want to happen. Those who regularly go to the gym and participate in scheduled exercise classes often have little energy and inclination to be active at other times. Furthermore, most of us don’t like exercise (we were born to conserve energy) and so we reward ourselves when we have done exercise. You’re better off being functionally fit – doing normal activity as part of your daily life, such as walking to work, gardening, cleaning, carrying shopping – than doing 20 minutes at the gym and then “rewarding” yourself with junk for the punishment that you just endured.



Don’t worry about portion sizes

To lose weight we must nourish – not deprive. You may find that your meals need to be bigger and better (more nutritious) than they used to be because each meal needs to get you through to the next one. Your portions of meat, fish and eggs need to be more substantial if you are not filling up with (make that fattening up with) potatoes and pasta alongside. Eat real food – ie food in the form that nature provides it. This is the phrase I use to explain what real food is: “Oranges grow on trees; cartons of orange juice don’t. Cows graze in a field; Peperami sticks don’t. Fish swim in the sea; fish fingers don’t.” Choose whatever real food you eat for the nutrients it provides. This means you avoid junk food. Eat a maximum of three meals a day. Breakfast should contain eggs; bacon; smoked salmon or kippers; natural yoghurt; berries. Lunch and dinner should feature: meat; fish; eggs; cheese; yoghurt; vegetables and berries – real foods rich in fat and protein and naturally low in carbohydrate.



Don’t weigh yourself

If your inclination is to give up when the scales don’t give you the “reward” that you’re looking for, then don’t get on the scales. If weighing is more likely to demotivate you than to motivate you, then don’t do it. Develop instead non-weight measures of success. Are you sleeping better? Is your skin clearer? Do you have more energy throughout the day and fewer sugar highs and lows? Make sure that you have a number of measurable things to motivate you – not just the number on the scales (which can vary for all sorts of reasons anyway, from water retention to recent food intake). I advise people to view weight loss as a “chipping away” exercise. Lose a pound or two, maintain, lose another couple of pounds, maintain. The successful dieter is the one who can maintain commitment even when they don’t feel that they are losing weight right now.



DAY 1





ROMAS FOORD

Breakfast Bacon and eggs.

Lunch Salade niçoise. Place a tin of tuna or a tuna steak on a bed of salad. Add a hard-boiled egg, olives and anchovies (optional).

Dinner Stir-fried vegetables and brown rice. Cook 50-75g (dry weight) of brown rice (takes 30 minutes). Chop lots of vegetables (carrots, courgettes, onions, peppers, green beans, baby sweetcorn, etc). Stir-fry in olive oil on a high heat for 5-10 minutes. Add tofu for extra protein.



DAY 2





ROMAS FOORD

Breakfast Porridge with water or low-fat milk.

Lunch Brown rice salad. Precook 65g dry weight brown rice – cook extra rice on Day 1 for an easy Day 2 lunch – and leave to chill. Add finely chopped salad ingredients (cucumber, spring onions, pepper, celery, crushed garlic clove). Use olive oil and black pepper as a dressing.

Dinner Roast chicken with vegetables or salad.



DAY 3





ROMAS FOORD

Breakfast Greek (full-fat) yoghurt with berries.

Lunch Roast chicken salad.

Dinner Chilli and rice (4 portions). Cook 65g (dry weight per person) brown rice. Heat 2 tbsp olive oil and gently fry 2 finely chopped onions. Add 1 chopped red pepper, 1 crushed garlic clove. Fry for 4 minutes. Add 1.5kg mixed veg cut into cubes; tin of chopped tomatoes; tin of kidney beans; 2 sliced chillies; chilli powder to taste. Stir for 20 minutes.



DAY 4





ROMAS FOORD

Breakfast Brown-rice cereal. Available in the gluten-free section in supermarkets and/or in health food shops. I like it dry, but add low-fat milk if you prefer.

Lunch Baked potato and leftover veggie chilli. Precook a baked potato when you have the oven on for the roast chicken. Reheat lunch in the microwave at work.

Dinner Salmon, mackerel or any large piece of fish – ideally oily – with vegetables or salad.



DAY 5





ROMAS FOORD

Breakfast Plain or ham omelette.

Lunch Chef’s salad. A bed of salad with hard-boiled eggs, tinned fish, cheese and/or cold cuts of meat.

Dinner Rice pasta in tomato sauce. Cook the pasta according to packet instructions. For the sauce, heat 2 tbsp olive oil until sizzling. Fry 1 chopped onion and 1 crushed garlic clove until soft (2-3 minutes). Stir in 400g chopped tomatoes. Heat for 2 minutes. Add 2 tsp basil, season and mix with the cooked pasta.



DAY 6





ROMAS FOORD

Breakfast My protein shake. Put 2 eggs, 200ml thick natural yoghurt and 1 rounded tsp decaf ground (instant) espresso powder in a blender and mix thoroughly.

Lunch Fruit platter, plain oat biscuits, low-fat cottage cheese.

Dinner Steak with vegetables or salad.



DAY 7





ROMAS FOORD

Breakfast Scrambled eggs.

Lunch Roast lamb, pork, beef or chicken. Selection of vegetables.

Dinner Stuffed peppers. Boil 50-75g (dry weight) of brown rice. Stir-fry chopped, mixed vegetables in olive oil and then mix the rice and vegetables. Use to fill a deseeded pepper shell. Bake in a medium oven for 20-30 minutes, until the pepper is soft when touched with a fork.


The Diet Fix, by Zoë Harcombe, is publish